Top Coating is Easy
ONCE YOU DISCOVER THE SECRETS!
Questions and concerns about top coating furniture is one of the most talked about problems for furniture flippers.
When I first started it took me what felt like forever to figure out why I was getting streaks every single time I attempted to add my poly to the top of a buffet. It was Drag. Drag is when you overlap your swipes of poly after it has already started to dry.
Companies add an agent to make the poly dry fast and for some you have to swipe super fast to avoid drag. If you don't, you'll get streaks. It's one of the most frustrating issues to deal with if you don't know why it happens or how to fix it.
My heart goes out to those having trouble with top coating because I was there. Ugh. Until I figured it out, I went to sleep stressing over it and woke up so frustrated that it was the first thing on my mind.
I Spent Two Weeks Looking for Answers
I watched every video I could find. I read blogs. I experimented.
I honestly wanted to throw the buffet out the door but it was too heavy for me to lift! If this sounds familiar, how about I share the secret to top coating with you today - would that be ok?
The Videos
Below are videos showing you fail safe techniques and I'll also give you some links to a couple of products that will aid you in making top coating easier. But regardless of the product you use, you can master the technique.
I did and you can too. No more sleepless nights and throwing things out the window!
Water-based Polyacrylic or Polyurethane
Video #2 - Applying in Strips Works for Every Brand of Water-based Poly
This video shows you how I apply poly using a car detailer sponge.
- If painted, make sure the surface is smooth before applying poly. If not, lightly sand to smooth it out. At that point you'll see if you need another coat of paint.
- If stained, don't sand because you might remove stain. The time to make sure it is smooth is before you stain.
- Apply poly in a dust free zone. Be sure not to walk by it as it dries because you might stir up fuzz or dust from your clothes or in the air that may settle on the poly as it dries.
- If using a product that dries very fast, work quickly, overlapping about an inch with each swipe, starting on the far side. If you missed a spot, wait until your second coat to catch it to avoid drag.
NOTE: With the Retique It or CrystaLac top coating products, you will not need to sand between coats (unless you have dust that has settled onto the poly before it dried). These products are made to bond to one another.
Both of these brands are a water-based polyurethane. You can also use a regular brush or foam brush to apply. They have great open time, which means you have a good amount of time to work with it. You get less drag with these products because of this. They are super easy to use.
VIDEO #2 - A Top View
This is a top-view of how easy it is to use a product that has great open time. I find it easiest to put my polyacrylic into an easy to open squeeze bottle and then apply it like this. After I get the right amount on evenly, I then I go over it to smooth it out, side to side, making sure I don't have drips down the sides.
The nice part about using a sponge is it's ability to conform to the curves on the sides.
I like to have an overhead light to help me see if I have covered it well. If I see I missed a spot, there's enough time to go back over it and then smooth it out again.
Oil-based Polyurethane
Video #3 - Applying an Oil-based Top Coat
This is one of my videos, from "The Complete Redesign Course," and it shows you how I apply General Finishes Dye Stain and their oil-based polyurethane Wipe On Gel Top Coat.
When using oil-based polyurethane, do realize that you'll get an ambering, which isn't a problem using it over a wood stain that has a bit of amber coloring.
I always use a folded up t'shirt. It's won't leave a bunch of fuzzies and I can just throw it away later. It's the same for staining. Any time I can toss and not wash, I'm in!
NOTE: If using the Dye Stain, realize it's very watery and easily flicked onto yourself or the floor. Use it carefully. My other favorite is their Java Gel, which is oil-based. It's super easy to use because it's a thick gel. It goes on so smoothly.
Regarding dry times: I give all my oil-based products 72 hours or more to dry before applying anything to it. One humid week a few years ago, it took 5 days for the stain to dry enough to apply the Wipe-on Poly. You can usually tell it's dry enough if it no longer smells.
I only use this product if I need an oil-based polyurethane because it's easy. I like easy and General Finishes is a reliable company. I used their other oil-based product, Arm-R-Seal, and was very frustrated over how it drew in a thousand fuzzies before it dried.
Video #4 - Another Option: Hard Wax Oil
I thought, why not? So I'm adding a couple of other more obscure, or maybe I should say, less used, top coating ideas just in case you have questions about them.
This video shows you how I applied Hard Wax Oil by Fiddes to the top of a dresser that I had given a liquid wood veneer top and stained. The resulting finish was outstanding. Next time I buy, I'll probably go with General Finishes. They carry a hardener - you add 1/2 tsp per 2 oz. to give it that extra durability. If you want specific information about General Finishes Hard Wax Oil go here. Tom Monahan demonstrates via video how to apply to bare wood.
Be aware that there is a specific way to dispose of your rag or sponge after use.
Video #5 - Wax: Clear and/or Dark Wax for Antiquing
Waxing. I don't do this much. I find poly easier and I like easy. I have heard from others during the time where was was very popular that it collects dust more easily, but I'm thinking that might be the case if it's not buffet out after. Feel free to let me know your experience with wax.
I used clear and dark wax in this video, but do realize there are many other choices. Retique It has beautiful gold, silver and white waxes too!
More Tips
After closing jars or cans of poly or paint, I wrap the top with shrink wrap to keep the air out. Sometimes I pour it into a glass container if it comes in a metal can to prevent it from rusting and having the little rust particles fall into my product.
For extra durability with poly, lay down a first coat of gloss if you are using a matte or flat for your finish sheen. The gloss has more solids, thus giving more protection than matte and especially flat. You will need 2 or more coats to cover the glossy sheen, but it's worth the extra effort.
After my first application, I store the brush or sponge in a plastic zip lock baggie so I can reuse it without having to wash it out each time I apply a coat. I'll sometimes do the same with the t'shirt that I use for the oil-based gel topcoat.
Most painted pieces with water-based poly dry completely in just a couple of hours. It takes 2-4 weeks to cure completely, so be sure to state this to your buyer. I suggest giving them "How to Care for Your Furniture" instructions.
Both Retique It and CrystaLac's products dry crystal clear and don't need to be sanded between coats. Most polys suggest you sand between coats to insure adhesion. Sanding between coats not only removes fuzzies and dust that dried on the surface, but it also helps smooth and build the finish.
If you still have trouble with fuzzies and dust, one trick to help fix this is to add a little of your paint into the poly. This especially helps over white paint. The added paint will "color" or at least cover the fuzzies. I had trouble top coating my master bedroom headboard. It was very big and I had to lean over the piece to top coat it all. Plus, it was during the winter when the furnace was shooting warm air around me and putting floaties in the air which settled on my poly as it was drying. After three attempts to get it top coated without dark spots, I added the same white paint to my poly and voilá it solved the problem and I got a flawless finish.
If a water-based top coat appears to have yellowed, there could be several reasons. Most blame the topcoat, but often it has been caused by three other possibilities: the poly was applied too thick, tannins were not adequately sealed and bled through, or the piece sat in the sun. General Finishes suggests you write in all contracts that white furniture may amber and you provide no guarantee that whites will stay white. Many add an up-charge for white pieces.
RE: Wax. After you wax, you can buff it out to give a smoother appearance and a bit of a glow. Some ask if you can add poly after wax. Most say, "No," but I have also heard it is OK to do after the wax has cured. Proceed at your own risk. Never, never use wax on kitchen cupboards. If something drips, it could "melt" the wax and leave a scar. I hear wine is the worst to leave a stain. I can't imagine what grease would do.
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I hope this was a help to you.
Many blessings,
Val Frania
PS: It would be helpful if you would drop me a line to let me know how helpful this was for you (or give me your tips I could add here). Just hit reply on the email that sent you here or email me directly at Val@ValFrania.com. Thanks!